Ham and Cheddar Macaroni with Broccoli and Cauliflower

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. While it heats, toss the shredded cheddar in a bowl with the cornstarch and dry mustard until every strand is lightly coated.

Tip: The cornstarch coating is what keeps the cheese from clumping when it hits the hot milk.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the diced ham in one layer and cook 6 to 7 minutes, turning once or twice, until the edges are browned and crisp. Stir in the garlic for the last 30 seconds, until fragrant, then scoop the ham onto a plate, leaving the browned bits in the pan.

Tip: Leave the ham alone between turns; moving it constantly stops it from browning.

Add the macaroni to the boiling water and cook 4 minutes, then add the frozen vegetables and cook 3 to 4 minutes more, until the pasta is just tender and the broccoli is bright green. Scoop out 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain.

Meanwhile, pour the evaporated milk into the skillet over medium heat and scrape up the browned bits. Heat 2 to 3 minutes, until steaming with small bubbles at the edge; do not let it boil hard.

Turn the heat to low and add the coated cheddar a handful at a time, stirring 2 to 3 minutes, until it melts into a smooth sauce that coats the back of the spoon.

Add the drained macaroni and vegetables and the browned ham to the sauce and toss over low heat 1 to 2 minutes, until everything is glossy and hot. Loosen with a splash of the reserved cooking water if it tightens, and season with the black pepper.

Tip: The sauce thickens as it sits; add the pasta water just before serving, not earlier.

Spoon the macaroni onto plates, making sure each gets plenty of ham and vegetables, and scatter the sliced green onions over the top.