Homestyle Chicken Macaroni Soup with Carrots

Season the chicken drumsticks with half the salt and the pepper. Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium-high heat and sear the drumsticks 3 minutes per side, until the skin is golden in spots. Move them to a plate.

Tip: Sear in two batches if the pot is crowded, or the skin steams instead of browning.

Lower the heat to medium. Add the onion, celery and carrots to the fat in the pot and cook 6 to 7 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the onion is soft and translucent. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute, until fragrant.

Pour in the concentrated broth and the water, add the bay leaves and return the drumsticks with any juices. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn the heat to low, partly cover and simmer 45 to 50 minutes, until the meat is tender and pulls away from the bone.

Tip: Keep it at a lazy bubble; a hard boil clouds the broth.

Lift the drumsticks onto a cutting board and let them cool 10 minutes, until you can handle them. Pull off and discard all the skin, bones and the thin needle-like tendons, then shred the meat into bite-size pieces with two forks.

Tip: Run your fingers through the shreds once; drumstick tendons are easy to miss.

Meanwhile, skim the fat from the surface of the broth with a ladle and discard the bay leaves. Bring the broth back to a boil over medium-high heat, stir in the macaroni and cook 8 to 9 minutes, stirring now and then, until the pasta is tender.

Return the shredded chicken to the pot and simmer over medium heat 2 minutes, until heated through. Taste and add the remaining salt and more pepper as needed.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls so each gets chicken, carrot coins and macaroni, and scatter the chopped parsley and a crack of black pepper over the top.

Tip: Leftovers thicken as the macaroni drinks the broth; loosen with a splash of water when reheating.