Grilled Ham and Triple Cheddar Melt on Brioche

Lay the eight slices of brioche out on a board and butter one side of each slice right to the edges. Flip four of them over: the buttered side becomes the outside of each sandwich.

Tip: Softened butter spreads without tearing the soft crumb; cold butter will shred it.

Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard on the dry side of the four flipped slices.

Tip: Go thin: the mustard is there to cut the fat, not to lead.

Scatter about a third of the triple cheddar over the mustard, then fold the ham slices into loose ruffles and pile them on. Season with black pepper, add the tomato slices if you are using them, and top with the remaining cheddar.

Tip: Ruffling the ham instead of laying it flat traps air and keeps the sandwich from turning dense.

Close each sandwich with a remaining brioche slice, buttered side facing out. Press down gently so the cheese grips the bread.

Set a large skillet over medium heat and add two sandwiches. Cover the pan and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until the underside is deep golden and the cheese has started to melt.

Tip: The lid traps steam and melts the interior: without it the brioche burns before the cheddar gives way.

Flip the sandwiches, press them flat with a spatula and cook uncovered another 3 to 4 minutes until the second side is just as dark and the cheese runs at the edges. Repeat with the remaining two sandwiches, then cut each on the diagonal and serve hot.

Tip: Let them rest one minute before cutting or the cheese pours straight out.