Garlicky Tuna & Roma Tomato Spaghetti

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add 1 tbsp salt; it takes about 10 minutes, so start it before you cut the tomatoes.

Warm 3 tbsp of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and chili flakes and cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring, until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant.

Tip: Pull the pan off the heat for a moment if the garlic colours fast; browned garlic turns bitter.

Add the Roma tomatoes and a pinch of salt, raise the heat to medium-high and cook 10 to 12 minutes, pressing the pieces with the spoon, until the skins split and the tomatoes collapse into a thick, chunky sauce.

While the sauce cooks, boil the spaghetti 9 to 10 minutes, until al dente with a slight bite in the centre. Scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain.

Add the spaghetti to the skillet with 1/2 cup of the pasta water and the lemon zest and juice. Toss over medium heat for 2 minutes, until the sauce turns glossy and clings to every strand; loosen with more pasta water if it looks dry.

Take the pan off the heat. Add the tuna in large chunks, the parsley, the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil and the pepper, and fold gently for 30 seconds, just until the tuna is warmed and still in big flakes.

Tip: Fold, don't stir hard, or the tuna shreds into the sauce and disappears.

Twirl the spaghetti onto warm plates, spoon over any tomato and tuna left in the pan and finish with the grated Grana Padano.